Increasing the depth of your base cabinet can gain you more space, and in this case, create visual interest

“With regard to base cabinets, what should I consider if I’m thinking of increasing the depth of my counter?”

Gaining a little extra countertop space is not unusual, and as far as base cabinets, it comes down to two choices: Keep them at their standard depth of 24″, and have your installer pull them forward the inch or two necessary. (The actual amount is dependent upon what you decide for countertop width).

The other choice is to have your base cabinets made deeper.

Comparing the two choices: with the first, it’s less expensive, but you end up with some wasted space.

The second is you gain space for all affected base cabinets, but will cost more.

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A breakfast nook is a wonderful complement to your kitchen design

“We want to include a breakfast nook in our design, but not sure how much room to allow for seating on both sides?”

Could anything be cozier than a breakfast nook? Wonderful idea! You can calculate the necessary space this way:

Each seated space should be 18-21″. That measurement is taken from the front of the seat back to the edge of the table.

The minimum comfortable table width is 36″.

So, the recommended minimum space, measured from face of seat back, across the table, to face of seat back on the opposite side, would be 72″. (18 + 36 + 18 = 72)

Naturally, you may need to take into account special circumstances (unusually tall, short, large, etc)

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This Arts & Crafts cherry kitchen looks gorgeous in the early morning sunlight

“I’d love a cherry kitchen, but have been told the color will change. Does it?”

Cherry is a popular choice, with its rich grain and ruddy tone. And, yes, it will age and darken a bit over time, adding to its appeal. However, all woods with natural or stained finish will darken. Cherry just happens to be more affected. The actual amount depends on a few factors: ambient light, direct sunlight and stain color. As you can guess, a room regularly flooded with natural sunlight that contains natural cherry cabinetry will tend to hasten nature’s process. Conversely, a dark and dramatic kitchen with low ambient light will also darken, just at a slower rate.

We can tell you this: In 30 years of creating cabinetry for discriminating clients, we have never had anyone say, “I wish we never got cherry!”

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Whether you design your kitchen using a work triangle or zones isn't crucial. The important thing is to design it so that it works for you!

“We’re redesigning our old kitchen to be a better layout. Should we focus on work triangles or zones?”

While the answer to this question could result in pages of information and discussion, perhaps we could offer a very general guideline. If your space is large, start the redesign using zones (typical core zones include: Prep, Cooking, Baking, Cleanup, and Storage. Also consider zones for Dining, Utility and Messaging)

A smaller space might be easier to redesign starting from a work triangle concept. Keep in mind, neither method has to be exclusive of the other, and if you think about it, zones are simply triangles refined, in our opinion.

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Can't reach as high as you'd like? No problem with this interior pulldown!

“There is a substantial height difference between my husband and myself. He can reach the top part of a wall cabinet, but I can’t. Other than a kitchen step stool, any choices?”

As a matter of fact, there is. A variation on the traditional pullout, there is a pulldown. They are offered in different widths, and as you can see in the photo, are built rugged enough to hold some weight. With a tensioned spring for counterbalance, the pulldown operates smoothly and easily.

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This design creates usable storage between the beams!

“I’ve got exposed beams in my kitchen; can I still get cabinets going to the ceiling?”

Sure! The cabinets for your kitchen (or bathroom, laundry room, etc.) can be made to fit your specific space. Probably the best way to maximize the space is shown in the photo; that is, cabinets over cabinets. They could also be designed as single cabinets going all the way up; the compromise to work out is what to do with the beam-width gaps in the cabinetry. (Create skinny cabinets, leave the space open, etc)

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“I love being able to create storage in hidden areas. Any suggestions?”

Sure! If your design contains a post of some sort, you can create an opportunity for a pullout. This works especially well if you have a half-post mounted to the face of the cabinetry. Just be sure to account for way to actually grab and extend the post! Note in the image shown, you can just see a slight relief routed into the top section of this Arts & Crafts tapered post.

Another idea would be to conceal a drawer behind moulding. Naturally, we’re talking moulding bigger than 1″ cove! The island in the image features bracketed moulding with two drawers hidden within!

If there’s a space you want to utilize, we can create the cabinetry to make it work!

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High or low? Give some thought as to where you'll place your microwave in your kitchen design

“Should my microwave be located high or low in my kitchen plan?”

Like a lot of choices when designing your kitchen space, this one has no right or wrong answer. The main advantage for locating it high (in a wall cabinet, for example) is ease of use. The controls are at eye level, moving food in and out is easy, and not you’re not stooping over when it’s time to clean!

Locating it low (in a base cabinet or island cabinet) might make more sense if your microwave is capable of dual functions: microwaving and convection. Chances are you’ll be using it for more than quick reheating or popping popcorn, and larger items are easier to place and remove from a lower position.

Lastly, some people prefer to have the microwave located where it isn’t as visible, and find that placing it in a base cabinet does the trick, especially on an island.

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This corner is properly designed to maximize storage while providing the necessary clearance for the drawer to open all the way

“When it comes to an inside corner with cabinets, are there any special concerns?”

There is one item that might catch you off-guard: Drawer front clearance. Especially if the perpendicular corner has an appliance designed in. Sure, you’ve maximized your use of space, and your layout creates a cabinet that fits snug and tight into the corner. That is, until you open that drawer, and it smacks into the adjacent hardware!

The solution will vary depending upon your choice of hardware and cabinet construction method. For example, with full overlay construction, you’ll more than likely need a filler in the corner. Perhaps a customized drawer and face frame will be your choice. The main concern is to be aware beforehand, and in the long run, not hearing your kids say “Oh crap!” every time they open that drawer and bang it into something!

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The upper image shows the cabinet normally closed, and the drawer is opened in the image below

“In one cabinet of my bathroom design, I want to have some drawers, but it looks like pipes will be in the way. Any options?”

Assuming your pipes aren’t passing vertically just behind the face frame of the cabinet, yes! One possibility is a reduced depth drawer; instead of a drawer that normally fits all the way front to back, the back of the drawer stops just in front of the pipes. Another option, as shown in the photo, is a custom pipe chase drawer. This method allows for as much drawer as possible while fitting around the pipes! Obviously, good communication is key with your plumber, designer, contractor, etc.

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